Mount Baker Summit Via the Coleman/Upper Deming Route

From the top of the flowered spur (standard camp area for the route), ascend the Coleman glacier in a SSE direction to about 7000' then travel SE to the 9000' saddle between Colfax Peak and the summit of Mt. Baker. We encountered a number of crevasses on the way to the saddle, but they were easily negociated. The saddle provided a great bivy sight.

We started climbing to the summit at 3:30am. From the saddle the route heads ENE on scree for about 500' before it crosses onto the upper Deming Glacier. The slope is moderately steep (30-40 degrees) but had no crevasses. The biggest threats on this section is the loose rock on Roman Wall and a potential for very late season avalaches. We were able to reach the summit in less than two hours and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise from the forth highest peak in the state. This trip was a true testimony of how rapidly Washington's weather can change.

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